Purple-stained fingers and nails are signs of a Purpura hunter and dyer |
On the Oaxaca coast of Mexico, a small band of sixteen
men carry on an ancient tradition. They
coax a thimbleful of ink (really a narcotic to paralyze prey) from the
mollusk Purpura Pansa.
For
centuries, this beautiful purple yarn has been woven into posahuancos, a traditional sarong like skirt.
It takes about 300-400 Purpuras to dye one 12 oz. skein of
yarn and the dyers can only work for about three hours a day. The white ink is dabbed onto a skein of
cotton thread that the dyers carry wrapped around their forearms. Purpura then becomes a yellow green, but with
oxygen, it turns purple. Fixatives are not needed. A
true Purpura yarn will carry a briny-ocean smell, a way of checking the yarn's authenticity.
With only sixteen men gathering a dwindling
mollusk population, this is an art truly endangered of being lost.
Fives hours from home, a dyer on the hunt. |
There is a lovely website devoted
to this tradition, which you might find interesting here.
I first learned about this tradition from the Spring 2012 emag “Colorways”, which can be downloaded (for a reasonable fee) for PC, MAC, or IPad.
Traditional cloth woven with the Purpura Pansa dyed cotton. The skirts have bands of purpura, indigo and red (dyed with cochineal) on hand-spun silk. These lengths are woven on back-strap looms. |
oh I love the color purple in the first picture...that is a lot of mollusk for a small amount of yarn! Very pretty though.
ReplyDeleteA garment made out of it are so expensive now, that only the wealthiest women can afford one
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